The wake-up call comes at 4 AM. I find myself in my Cocoon cubicle at Charles de Gaulle Airport: a square the length of the double bed, a PVC prefab with a desk, shower, and toilet. I checked in here 15 hours ago after missing a plane for the first time in my life, and needing sleep after an overnight bus ride from London the night before, over the Channel by ferry from 12 to 2 AM.
My check-out time is 5 AM. The sign on the front door informed me that these rooms do not meet the minimum standards of the French government for a hotel, although they are the cheapest rooms in Paris with a private shower. Therefore, no stay can last more than 16 hours. I silently congratulate the bureaucrat who thought of that; it ensures a middle-of-the-night move if you decide to hop from room to room more than once.
The room is totally sealed; aside from the satellite photo of France on the wall, I could be anywhere on Earth. Or not—this design is perfect for the space station. I fell asleep the night before imagining I was returning home at warp speed, beating the plane I missed.
I sleep through my alarms, the phone and the television. At 4:58 AM, I shower, and check out at 5:17.
5 AM at Charles de Gaulle
The seats are littered with sleeping travelers too poor or unaware that a private bed is available nearby for 250 FRF. Their luggage is lashed to the trolleys that are free here and $2 everywhere in the States. Their bags and clothes give them the air of refugees rather than travelers, as if their flights will not leave for several weeks.
There is only one restaurant open, where I buy a cappuccino for 14 francs. It is covered with cocoa powder; after I dissolve it past the foamed milk with a plastic spoon, the beverage is entirely tasteless, palatable only because it is hot. I look for a sign informing me that this drink does not meet minimum French requirements for a coffee, and therefore must be consumed in 16 minutes.
Two television screens list a score of flights throughout Europe, Africa, and Asia. There is no other information, other than the news that the 8:10 to Cairo has been cancelled. I wonder if all flights to Cairo are cursed.
The airport is unnaturally quiet. Everyone, myself included, smokes Marlboros; Mediums for me, Lights at the next table, Reds everywhere else. The wick on my Zippo will not catch, so I need to bum lights from people around me; they are always offered, but with that odd French air that robs the gesture of all courtesy. I get a light from a woman wearing a jeweled Mickey Mouse stickpin.
The epitome of a French vagrant asks for a cigarette. I give him my last one and open a fresh pack. Fifteen minutes later, he asks someone else for another. I note that those people were not sitting here when he asked me for one. He has the same look as the homeless in the States who are ready to regale of you of their years in the Nam and their hard luck tales since. I wonder if the same wars are used here for such stories.
The only nonsmokers here are a Dutch family; the father wears a brown leather jacket and is the widest man I have seen since leaving the States. Paris is designed for the slim, and I wonder if he has had difficulty.
6 AM at Charles de Gaulle
In the past ten minutes, the noise level has gone from zero to bothersome. I am too sleep deprived to shut it out. There is an Asian tongue at the next table; the rest is French. It is a relief to not hear English for the first time after a week in France. I have seen two other Americans—our demeanor always betrays our nationality—but we are each traveling alone.
A black man clears my table with no regard as to whether I am finished. My tinfoil ashtray is replaced with glass. He communicates with me through hand signals that I cannot order from him, that I should go to the bar. I surmise he communicates with every customer through hand signals.
The appearance of my laptop computer, worth about $5,000 here, has drawn me some attention. I am suddenly less annoyed by the noise and crowds.
Ten flights are boarding. The flight to Cairo is still the only one cancelled.
Two tables away, a Frenchman in a gray woolen jacket and ugly tie opens the first pack of non-Marlboros I have seen. They are Philip Morrises.
Three stewardesses in matching burgundy at the next table are talking animatedly; with the arrival of the business crowds, this is the jolliest I have ever seen a public space at 6:30 AM. One of the woman wears a small piece of paper under her right lip, as if she cut herself shaving.
A man to my right sits with five duffel bags, two rucksacks, and a canteloupe-colored baseball cap; the chair next to him holds a maroon purse and a black feather boa. I am relieved to see companions join him.
The café is still the only one open. I purchase an orange juice and go for a walk. The juice is expensive and surprisingly good. I have done some shopping and am carrying far more baggage than I usually do; encumbrance plus fatigue causes me to take ten minutes to negotiate the tables out of the cafe. This is my fourth trip to Paris, and I feel like the high school kid I was the first time I was here.
Nine flights are still boarding, but it is now too late for the 6:45 AM to Manchester. The flashing red words in French give the impression from a distance that nine catastrophes have occurred out on the runway.
7 AM at Charles de Gaulle
The only woman behind the TWA counter is wiping it down. At home I would assume this was the ticketing agent, cleaning her desk before beginning the day. Here, I am not sure. I do not approach her, and cannot tell whether I am saving myself or her the embarrassment.
As of the end of December, I will have flown 40,000 miles this year on TWA. Yesterday, I noted that as of January, I will never be stranded again; the frequent flyer upgrades also give me the class of ticket that can be transferred to other airlines. This morning, I would like to use the toilet, but I have nowhere to put my bags; I am not yet eligible for the TWA business lounge, if there is one here. The airline industry provides its services to those least likely to need them.
I find another café where the coffee is better; in ordering my petit dejeuner I attempt to specify a croissant as my bread, and receive it as an extra. A Pepsi here costs nearly four dollars, and I wonder what I will be charged. The orange juice is from concentrate, but the jam is some of the best I’ve tasted.
Charles de Gaulle is built as a torus, around a central fountain. The fountain was placid an hour ago, but someone has recently turned on the jets. When sunlight hits the fountain, reflecting off the water and the silver aerial tubes that carry moving walkways, it can be quite beautiful. Now, though, it is still dark, and the fountain barely distracts from the Logan’s Run design of the airport interior.
I have been struck with Traveler’s Paranoia: my duffel contains a week’s worth of dirty clothes, and my gifts are not expensive, yet I am guarding my bags as if they contain uncut diamonds.
I take a picture of a snowman decoration to illustrate this article, and a man at the next table looks up at the flash, then glares at me. I want to say, “I am a writer; this is for my work.” I want to be anything but another ignorant American, snapping pictures of everything.
The direct flight from Washington has just arrived. I am homesick enough to be angry with everyone on the flight who has left the city where I am trying to go, where I will not be for another sixteen hours.
The 9:20 flight to Philadelphia, where I was born, has also been cancelled. After my uncharitable thoughts about Cairo, it is rather disturbing. It is now too late to board the flights to Copenhagen and London Heathrow.
I wonder if it is too early for a beer.
At the next table, a woman wearing Nikes is reading a newspaper with a headline about the Egypt Air 990 crash. I do not read French, but I understand the word “kamikaze” in the headline, and the blurry picture of a plane on the cover. It is odd pleasure reading before boarding a flight. I hope my pilots have families waiting for them back home.
8 AM at Charles de Gaulle
I spend 20 minutes in a fruitless search for a power outlet. Boarding an airplane without a fully charged battery always makes me feel faintly queasy. I have 10 hours of music and five hours of South Park episodes on my PowerBook, yet I keep forgetting to buy extra batteries.
The business center here is located behind a mirrored glass wall, with no indication of operating hours or services. It could be the airport offices. I want to check my e-mail, as if there is anything there that will not keep until I get home.
I decide to risk the airport lavatory, crowding into the stall with all of my baggage. For the fourth time this week, I have a sudden urge to go to Euro Disney; part of the Disney unreality is the sanitized bathrooms that make you feel like you are the first person to use them. The foot pedal flushes the toilet for 90 seconds, vigorously enough that I crowd myself and my bags against the lav door to prevent being splashed.
The woman at the TWA ticketing counter—not the same woman who was wiping it down this morning—tells me that the check-in will open in 20 minutes. Nothing better to do, so I am the first in line.